Sardines (a non-recipe for non-sad-desk-lunch)

I came back home, from home, this week.

Travelling was crazy this time. Between jet lag and baggage issues, some nights were so exhausting that we'd fall asleep by 10, which is not normal for me. But seeing Japan for the first time was amazing. Kyoto, with its quiet charm, was so beautiful. The sunsets were so sharp and the air was so crisp, and though we were freezing (lack of luggage = lack of proper clothes), the climate and people were so amenable that we daydreamed about retiring there. If Kyoto was therapeutic, then Tokyo was a frenetic. And I loved it. It's the mecca for Michelin restaurants but at the same time street-food is well and alive there. Of course, its not as rustic and varied as some food blogs romanticise, but if it's good enough for Anthony Bourdain you can bet it's good enough for me.

Every day we were stuffed (I'm pretty sure I went up a clothes size), but to the contrary what strikes me most about Japanese food culture is their focus on restraint. Bento boxes we had on the Shinkansen were portioned just right for a satisfying meal. At breakfast, our appetites were satiated by a handful of small dishes rather than a huge meal. Our nabemono and shabu shabu broth wasn't wasted and, combined with rice and egg, was used instead for zosuri (kind of like porridge).

We had so much green tea and so, so much fish. I don't necessarily dislike stereotypes because they provide context, even if incomplete at that. Which is why even though sushi is a luxury to most people, even the Japanese, I find that they do enjoy a lot of it in different forms. If you don't like cooked fish (like one of my two sisters) and you don't like raw fish (like the other of my two sisters) you might be tempted to wave Japan off, or bring packets of... crackers? idk? This is a shame and a little bit of an insult, imo. Not only is fish very good for you as meat goes, it's part of Japanese culture. Sure, there are other non-aquatic yummy things around like okonomiyaki, omurice and tonkatsu. These are 20th century Western-Japanese inventions otherwise known as yōshoku (we have something similar in Hong Kong) and while, don't get me wrong, are fantastic they don't seem to me very representative of Japanese meals, or washoku. Correct me if I'm wrong!

In Kyoto, we returned to a small cafeteria-like eatery that served soy sauce poached mackerel that I'm still thinking about, still trying to recreate at home. But the quality of the fish determines who well the dish will turn out, and Japan is known for it's attention to quality. As an island nation, it makes sense that Japanese cuisine features fish heavily. Another reason could be that during the 17th century or the Edo period, Buddhism and bans in favour of reducing demand for arable land encouraged the Japanese to eat less "four-legged animals". The country's geography is suited for fishing though. Freshwater fish come from streams draining from the mountains. The Oyashio and Kuroshio currents collide at Japan's eastern front and bring in a wealth of saltwater life. These days though, like in many Asian countries meat is on the rise in Japan, partially due to an increase in American imports. Possibly linked is the rise in fast food restaurants in the country. Still, it's hard to imagine obese children running around Tokyo (I certainly didn't see this). Here's hoping the trend doesn't stay its course, and fish continues to be a main ingredient in Japanese home-cooked meals. 

                        

p.s. Please don't let this post fool you, I love omurice deeply.

This 'recipe' comes from a habit I picked up while studying abroad in London, when I had little-to-none cooking space. I used to make sardine toasts because, frankly, they were cheap. Sardines are also extremely nutritious and because their bones kind of disintegrate from the canning process, provide lots of calcium. I love the oil they're packed in too, because its basically fish-infused and adds an interesting touch to fried rice.

It's so fast to put together that I wouldn't consider this a recipe, and it's perfect when you're not bothered to turn on the stove. The cheese might sound weird as a fish pairing but it adds heft! Change the ingredients as you please, but make sure to include a source of fat and an acid (cheese + grapefruit, browned butter + kimchi) I promise, it doesn't smell strongly. Unless you're hypersensitive to fishy smells.

Sardine and other stuff salad
Makes 2 servings
Mesclun mixed salad, two handfuls
Quarter of a red onion, sliced thinly
About 4 tinned sardines in olive oil (I used one tin of this)
Quarter of a grapefruit, sliced or supremed
One small avocado, large dice
Crumbly Gorgonzola cheese, as desired
Chopped walnuts, as desired

Toss the salad and onion together. Flake the sardines onto the salad. Add most of the grapefruit - as many segments as you like. Add the diced avocado then, using your fingers, squeeze the juice out of the remaining grapefruit onto the avocado to slow their oxidation/browning. Add the olive oil from your tin of sardines as desired, and a bit of salt and pepper. Finish with the remaining ingredients.